When climbers say they're coming to climb in Thailand, they usually talk about the beach side sport climbing mecca that is Tonsai. This beach hosts some of the best, most classic and hardest climbs in the country thanks to its extreme overhang nature and unforgiving overpolished holds. However, when the words get out about the paradise, people overcrowd the area and classic lines have long waits.
Thankfully, there are plenty of other walls in Krabi on Tonsai beach and Railey. Perhaps, one of the best for a more secluded climbing day is the Keepin Railey East. The wall sees only a handful of climbers each day during peak season because it has longer approach and a sketchy downclimb that may be a turn off for some climbers.
view from the keep
But the Keep remains a paradise with excellent quality climbs in the 6A's range to 7A+. And the best part is that the holds are not polished! Yes, holds with great edges and textures in Krabi. Also, the wall is in the shade for the entire day from morning to sundown! What you lose in beach and easy approach, you get less crowd and better holds at the Keep.
We spent two separate days climbing at this spot but with an early enough start and energy, you can easily climb all the routes here in one day.
The three 6C's in the middle of the wall are some of the best 5.11's I've ever done; fantastic movements, solid rock, and great safe bolting.
For those of you who want to crush a bit harder, the 7A and 7A+'s. The 7A's looked super fun but I didn't get to try it. However, the 7A+, Tongue Thaid is very awesome!
So, next time you visit Krabi, make sure to pack a lunch or snacks, and head over to the Keep and enjoy your day away from the crowd.